Podcast Episode 113: The Art & Science of MSG & Umami – Chef Chris Koetke & Dr. Tia Rains
Feb 21, 2019
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Disclosure: I want to thank Ajinomoto for inviting me to the World Umami Forum and for their support and sponsorship of this podcast series. Please note that guest views do not necessarily reflect those of Ajinomoto.
This is a 3-part series on Umami & MSG – or monosodium glutamate. In this series, I’m speaking with four different experts to explore the largely untold history, research on the safety, culinary applications – and even some potential health benefits and current research approaches. What you learn may surprise you!
MSG is one of the most beloved and vilified ingredients in American history.
It’s a staple for home cooks and world-renowned chefs, yet it’s a subject of skepticism as brands and restaurants promote “MSG-free” foods and dishes.
Last September, I was invited to attend the World Umami Forum in New York City, an event hosted by Ajinomoto, the world’s first and leading manufacturer of MSG. What I learned was so compelling that I decided to do a series of episodes so that I could interview several of the speakers and experts that I met at the conference and bring their knowledge to you. You’ll hear from a food historian and author, a registered dietitian, a research and food industry scientist, and also a chef.
Dr. Tia Rains and Chef Chris Koetke
The third episode in this 3-part series features Dr. Tia Rains and Chef Chris Koetke. They discuss the past and current research on MSG and the culinary applications of MSG and umami.
The first episode featured Sarah Lohman, a culinary historian and author of ‘Eight Flavors: The Untold Story of American Cuisine’. She shares how and why history has influenced our perceptions of MSG.
The second episode featured Mary Lee Chin, a registered dietitian with a master’s degree in science. She shares insight into MSG’s connection to Asian heritage and health topics – including the question of headaches.
I’m excited about the role MSG may play in bringing out the savory flavor in plant-based foods and proteins.”
– Dr. Tia Rains
I am currently working on developing recipes that build on umami and reduce sodium at the same time.”
– Chef Chris Koetke
MSG & Umami – The Basics:
- MSG or monosodium glutamate is a seasoning that combines sodium with glutamate, an amino acid that is naturally present in certain foods.
- MSG is the purest form of Umami, which is 1 of the 5 tastes in addition to sweet, salty, sour, and bitter, and brings out the savory flavor in foods.
- Studies have shown that MSG can reduce overall sodium content in a recipe by 30-40% by reducing the need for salt. In fact, the Institute of Medicine has referenced the potential of MSG as a tool to reduce sodium in foods.
- MSG is sold under the brand name Ac’cent in the United States, as well as AJI-NO-MOTO™, and can be purchased in the spice aisle of most major supermarkets, Asian grocery stores and online.
Get the Factsheet: Glutamate in the Kitchen
Guest Bios:

Nutrition is a science. We should expect and encourage its evolution.”
– Dr. Tia Rains

For me as a chef, it is always about taste and the eating experience. What is perhaps misunderstood here is that great food can taste great and be healthy and that balance in the diet is absolutely key.”
– Chef Chris Koetke
Resources:
Dr. Tia Rains: Twitter
Chef Chris Koetke: Website | Instagram
About MSG & Umami: whyusemsg.com
MSG & Umami Resources: Patient Education | MSG Safety | Recipes | Scientific Citations
Related Episodes:
The Untold History of MSG & Umami – Episode #111 with Sarah Lohman
MSG & Umami: Heritage, Health & Headaches? – Episode #112 with Mary Lee Chin
Featured Recipe:
Mexican Black Beans
Ingredients
- 2 lbs dried black beans
- 1 1/2 cups white onion diced
- 8 cloves garlic chopped
- 1 3/4 tsp salt
- 1 tsp MSG
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tbsp light soy sauce
- 1 tbsp black pepper
- 3/4 cup epazote chopped
- 1/2 cup cilantro minced
Instructions
- Cover the beans with cold water and let soak overnight at room temperature.
- The next day, drain the water.
- Place beans in a pressure cooker with 2 cloves garlic, onions, salt and MSG. Cover with water that is about 2 inches above the level of the beans (8-10 cups). Cover the seal the pressure cooker and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 35 minutes. Release the steam/pressure. The beans should be soft and creamy but not mushy.
- In a sauté pan, sauté 6 remaining garlic pour in the oil until they start to brown. Add the beans with about ½-3/4 of their liquid. (You can add more for a more liquid result which is also excellent. The rest of the liquid is discarded.)
- When it starts boiling add soy sauce, black pepper, and epazote. Boil for 10 minutes.
- Add cilantro and additional salt if desired. Serve.
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Music by Dave Birk
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can we get Chris’s Mexican Bean recipe he mentioned?
Thanks Ann,
I will ask him!
Melissa
Hi Ann – Chef Chris shared the Mexican Bean recipe so I’ve updated the shownotes with it – see above!
Melissa